What makes a good knit sweater – and how to keep it that way

I usually only look at a knit sweater after I have touched it. I pick it up from the table, weigh it in my hand, squeeze it, and watch how it springs back into shape. That sounds like a ritual, but it is the most reliable test I know. A good sweater has weight without being heavy, it is dense without seeming stiff, and it returns to its form as if it had never been touched. The knit styles that are new to our range for men this autumn have passed this test. Cable, relief, rib, and a free structure: very different styles that have one thing in common. None of them look like they belong to a single season.

From cable to structure

We begin with cable knit, the sweater most men think of when winter knitwear is mentioned. Its origins lie with the fishermen of the Irish and Scottish islands, for whom the tactile pattern primarily had to provide warmth. Today, I am interested in something else: the cable gives the sweater so much structure that it no longer needs color. The vertical strands lengthen the silhouette, while the dark brown keeps everything calm. I prefer to wear it tone-on-tone with dark corduroy or flannel trousers and chocolate-colored suede shoes. It does not tolerate a second loud surface, and it only fits under a coat if that coat is generously cut, because a cable-knit sweater naturally adds some bulk.

The relief knit in light beige is its quieter relative. The pattern elements also run vertically, but so subtly that you notice them more in glancing light than at first glance. From a distance, the sweater appears almost smooth; up close, it looks artisanal, and exactly this interplay makes it so versatile. With a light blue shirt underneath, its collar visible above the crew neck, and charcoal-colored flannel trousers, it becomes an alternative to a jacket that loses none of its poise in the office.

If someone asks me which sweater they should buy if they can only choose one, I show them the fine ribbed knit in beige. The ribbing gives the knit elasticity and a clean line, but it subordinates itself to everything else you combine it with. Worn over a shirt from Maffeis and with grey checked trousers, it is an autumn look that feels like a late breakfast in Milan. Under a jacket from Caruso, it sits so flat that the shoulder line remains untouched. And with dark denim, it becomes a weekend staple. Ribbed knit is to your wardrobe what the white collar is to a suit: the constant around which everything else revolves.

The fourth style is the freest and, if I’m honest, the one we discussed for the longest time when buying. The textured sweater in light blue works with geometric relief surfaces and alternating knitting directions, a much more modern language than cable or rib. Nevertheless, it never looks playful because the color remains uniform and the pattern reveals itself purely through the surface. In autumn, light blue is a braver choice than many expect, and that is precisely why it is so beautiful. Worn with chinos and leather shoes, it creates something almost Mediterranean that feels good on grey days. This sweater is best worn alone, without a shirt collar or scarf, so that the surface can speak for itself.

What stays and what changes

I am often asked how you can tell if a knit piece is timeless. My answer is always the same: timeless is that which is understated in its cut and color. A crew-neck sweater with neatly knitted cuffs, slim but not tight, that ends just below the seat, will never go out of style. The same applies to the colors navy, grey, camel, beige, ecru, and a deep brown. Anyone who builds their wardrobe on these tones can vary everything else freely.

What shifts from season to season are volume and surface. Currently, we are moving away from very smooth fine knits toward more texture and depth, and I welcome this development because texture makes quality visible. A cable or relief sweater is therefore not a trend purchase; it is more of a return to something that has always existed. The fact that many styles this season have a crew neck is, by the way, no coincidence. It is the most versatile neckline, working solo, over a shirt, and under a jacket. The turtleneck is more elegant but requires a conscious decision against a tie, and I recommend the V-neck primarily to men who wear a tie regularly.

Quality you can feel in your hand

There are a few things anyone can check in the store themselves without being an expert. If you hold a sweater up to the light, you can immediately see how densely it is knitted, and the less light that shines through, the longer it will keep its shape. If you pull the cuff apart slightly, it should spring back without hesitation. With cashmere, it is worth feeling carefully. High-quality cashmere feels soft, but also cool and dry. If a sweater is noticeably fluffy, the surface has often been roughened to hide short fibers. That looks seductive in the store, but at home, it manifests as little knots on the sleeves after just a few weeks. Two-ply yarn is also more robust than single-ply, and if you are unsure, just ask us.

Care determines lifespan

The most common reason why a good sweater ages prematurely is rarely the sweater itself. It is the care, and the good news is that knitwear needs less attention than many believe—just the right kind.

How often should you wash knitwear?

Wool and cashmere are largely self-cleaning. After wearing, it is usually enough to let the sweater air out overnight, spread out flat. A sweater that I wear over a shirt is often only washed two or three times a season. Equally important is the break: after being worn, knitwear needs about a day so that the fibers can relax and small stretches at the elbows and cuffs can recede. Anyone who wears their favorite sweater three days in a row will noticeably shorten its life.

How to wash cashmere correctly?

If you do have to wash it, do so by hand in lukewarm water, maximum thirty degrees, using a wool or cashmere detergent. Move the sweater only gently in the water; do not rub or wring it. Then carefully press the water out, roll the sweater in a towel, and pull it into shape on a dry towel. Heating elements, direct sun, and tumble dryers are off-limits. The hand-wash program on modern machines is a good alternative, as long as the spin cycle remains on low. If wrinkles appear after drying, steam, a steamer, or simply the bathroom after a shower will help. You should not bring an iron into contact with knitwear.

Storing knitwear correctly

Knitwear belongs in the cupboard folded, never on a hanger. Its own weight will otherwise stretch the shoulders and leave bulges that remain, and heavy cable and relief sweaters are particularly prone to this.

Removing pilling

The little knots that form on cashmere in the first few weeks are not a defect, but loose, short fibers that are detaching from the yarn. They can be removed with a cashmere comb or a fine lint shaver, after which the mesh texture settles. If the pilling does not stop after a few weeks, it is due to the quality of the fiber and not you.

Storing knitwear over the summer

Before knitwear goes into the box in the spring, it should be washed, because moths are less interested in the wool itself than in what remains in it after wearing. Use breathable cotton bags instead of plastic, add cedarwood or lavender, and the sweater will come out in autumn just as it went in. Sanding the cedarwood lightly every year or two ensures that it retains its scent.

A sweater that improves with the years

A good knit sweater is one of the few garments that becomes more beautiful over time, provided you handle it properly. If you want to start this autumn, it is best to begin with the ribbed knit in beige as a base and then add a sweater with more character—the cable for those who like it classic, the textured knit for those looking for something fresh.

It is best to visit us in Düsseldorf. I would be happy to lay the styles out side by side for you, and you will feel in your hand what I am writing about here. If you prefer something more uncomplicated, you can reach us via WhatsApp. We will send you photos and advise you on size, color, and combinations.

Pierre Zielinski